
Sometimes it's hard to know if I am a tourist or a pilgrim. And maybe it doesn't matter. Take the visit this ancient well, for instance.
St. Winifred is another local saint, though much more widely know in Wales than St. Melangell. Here's the basic hagiography (story of the saint, and not a biography as we know the term): Winifred wanted to be a nun, and confided this to her uncle, St. Beuno. While her parents were off to Eucharist and she was alone at home tending the animals, a local prince rode by. When she refused his advances, she cleverly got away and ran to the church. But before she got there, the prince in his rage severed her head from her body. Where her head fell, a spring of pure water sprang forth. St. Beuno scolded the prince soundly, and then reattached Winifred's head. She lived out the rest of her days as a nun. The spring became a place of healing. Kings made pilgrimages there for over a thousand years. It's referred to an the Lourdes of Wales.
Do I believe there is magic in the water? No. Do I believe there is healing in the water? That's another story. I believe that God can be found there as well as anywhere. So often we find what we are looking for. Sometimes we even bring a dream with us and find it realized.
Maybe that's the difference between tourists and pilgrims. We certainly look alike from the outside. One comes to see the discarded crutches; the other comes to see God move, and all the while brings God along. I also brought along a change of clothing!
There's a ritual at this shrine.It is Roman Catholic. First, one prays, preferably at the statue of the Blessed Virgin. Nearby is a fence hung with hundreds of plastic rosaries. One then walks down steps into the pool that is fed by the ancient spring. Upon leaving the pool, one walks around the head of the well and circles the pool before re-entering. This is done three times.
Yes, the water was cold, and so was the air. And it was odd to then go into one of those cabana-like tents to change! Am I healed? Maybe you can decide that when we get together!

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